We don’t get ramps in France, at least I’ve never seen them. But I am certain you can use those in place of the bears’ garlic. Since they have tiny bulbs at the bottom, you may need to trim those and sauté them first, before adding the leaves, as they will take a bit longer to soften. Ramps can be less-strong in flavor than wild garlic. So if you want to use them, you could use up to 8 ounces (225g.)

It’s vital to use fresh pasta, which you can make yourself – I used the recipe from My Paris Kitchen, without adding fresh herbs – or you can use the recipe for fresh pasta here on the site. You’ll need about 1 1/4 pounds (565g) – my recipe is generous because I love homemade pasta so much, so you can dry the rest of the batch to use for another purpose. (Or freeze the leftover dough.) I cut my noodles wide, by hand, creating what’s called papparadelli. You can use fettucini-shaped pasta if you have a pasta cutter attachment, or are buying fresh pasta. Gnocchi would work well, too.

I shaved a bit of ricotta salata (dried ricotta), a mild Italian cheese that my local Italian restaurant has been selling me, with an agreeable tang that doesn’t interfere with other flavors, over each serving. But I didn’t snap a picture of them as it was getting dark – and I was hungry! So feel free to do so, if you can get your hands on some.