Ricotta Gnudi with Ramps and Porcini

GNUDI

1. To make the gnudi, put the ricotta in a bowl and mix in the nutmeg, salt and parmesan. Find yourself a lidded container that will hold all the gnudi and put about a 1/2 inch deep layer of semolina in it; this will be the bed for your gnudi. Put the rest of the semolina in a casserole dish. Set this all up near your sink.
2. Wet your hands and make little ricotta balls about the size of a walnut, or even a touch smaller. Roll the balls in the casserole dish full of semolina and then gently pick them up and nestle the balls in the lidded container. Sink them ever so gently into the 1/2 inch of semolina. Repeat with the rest of the ricotta. I find I need to rinse my hands about ever 3 or 4 ricotta balls.
3. When all the gnudi are made, bury them as best you can with all the semolina from the casserole dish. It's OK if they are not totally submerged. Cover the container and put it in the refrigerator.
4. Once a day for at least 3 days, pick up each gnudi, reshape it into a ball and replace it upside down -- i.e., the part that was facing down yesterday should face up today. What you are doing here is drying out the gnudi enough to boil, and you are slowly building up a gossamer shell of semolina flour.

TO FINISH

1. Fill a large, shallow pan -- like a frying pan with high sides -- with enough water to submerge the gnudi. Bring it to a boil and add some salt; the water should taste pleasantly salty. Turn the heat down to a simmer for now.
2. Put the ramp bulbs and the porcini dice in a saute pan and turn the heat to medium high. The porcini will soon begin to sizzle and release their water. When they do, sprinkle everything with a little salt. When the porcini have given up most of their water, add the 2 tablespoons of regular olive oil. Brown the porcini and ramp bulbs well, turning the dice so the porcini are evenly browned. When they are, remove the porcini to a paper towel to drain.
3. Add the chicken stock and half the lemon juice and bring to a boil. Add the ramp leaves and boil furiously for 2 to 3 minutes, until the sauce thickens. Turn the heat to low, just to keep things warm.
4. Turn the heat on the water pan to high. When it's boiling, use a slotted spoon to gently lower the gnudi into the water. Let them boil for about 15 seconds, then turn the heat down to a simmer, and cook them for another 90 seconds. Move them carefully to individual plates -- they're fragile.
5. Add the high quality olive oil to the saucepan along with black pepper and any more lemon juice or salt it might need. Swirl to combine and pour over the gnudi. Sprinkle the porcini dice over everyone's plate and serve at once.